Driss van Noten about what his collections consist of
On May 12, designer Dries van Noten turned 60 years old. The Belgian in an interview with Ukrainian Vogue spoke about his collections, the beginning of his career and much more.
Dries van Noten is considered the progenitor of the trend for ethically oriented fashion: he started working with artifacts long before the fashion appeared to organize production in the countries of the third world and to find modern application for traditional craftsmanship. The first experience was working with Indian craftsmen who embroider and dye fabrics. “In India, in the 1980s, I was brought a friend who adores her. I fell in love with the colors of this country and began to take interest in the work of local masters. Most of the artisans then made polyester wedding dresses for the Russian market – cake dresses with abundant embroidery, as well as rich saris for the local market, – says the designer. – They taught me to understand the intricacies of embroidery, and I showed them how to make it different. For example, to make gold look not “bling-bling”, but more modestly and delicately. “
The fashion of Driss van Noten is a very personal experience, built on a feeling of fabric and texture. “All the fabrics in the collections are created especially for us. Under a calm texture we think through a combination of threads. If you need to get a certain shade – for example, purple or purple – we choose fabrics so that they correctly refract the light, make it deeper, make it beautiful. I love to play with it, “- says the designer. He prefers to order woolen “man’s” fabrics from small manufactures in England: “They have a grand archive”. And in the Lyons workshops, which served French couturiers in the 50’s and 60’s, Dris van Noten orders materials of complex fabrication, such as etched velvet, a devour or silk with hand-painted drawings. “Sometimes the material does not get accustomed to clothing – then we make bags and shoes out of it, thereby showing our respect for the fabric.”
The designer’s office is located almost on the outskirts of the city – on the territory of the former warehouse. These are six floors, the last of which is a showroom with panoramic windows and a view of the city. Most of the time van Noten spends not in his office, but in the general space with the creative group. “I try to avoid communication by mail. Practical questions can be solved and on a mail, but creative it is necessary to discuss personally. If I answer more than five letters a day – it means that in my company something is working incorrectly. ” The designer does not divide the team into divisions and departments, but prefers to “work with inspired people”.